S. A. KHAMDOKHOV

Our sobkor in Turkey

Keywords: Turkey, Turks, national character, culture, features of everyday life, traditions

The history of Russian-Turkish relations goes back several centuries. There have been ups and downs in the interaction between our countries. For almost the entire 20th century, due to the current geopolitical situation in the world, Russia and Turkey, despite their geographical proximity, were actually far from each other.

The situation began to change dramatically with the removal of the "iron curtain" and the opening of the borders of the new Russia. A tourist boom has begun. Turkey has become a real Mecca for Russian tourists. I will share some of my impressions about various aspects of the life of citizens of this country.

Every year, millions of Russians come to Turkey to enjoy their holidays on the sandy beaches and cozy hotels of the Mediterranean Sea. Many people prefer to plunge into the unique atmosphere of Istanbul with its historical sights and the hustle and bustle of a bustling metropolis. However, it seems to me that most of our compatriots who have visited the Republic of Turkey associate this country only with obsessive merchants in markets and boutiques and Turkish women who bake traditional gozleme tortillas for tourists.

Perhaps such an idea has a right to exist, but, in fact, it only captures a superficial view of a country with rich cultural traditions and history.

I have been living and working in Ankara for several years. I regularly communicate with Turks in various everyday situations, daily observe the life of the city, note its shortcomings and advantages-often they do not distinguish us from the Turks, on the contrary, unite us with them.

My notes, of course, are only individual touches to the "everyday" portrait of the nation.

FAMILY VALUES AND THE EVIL EYE AMULET

For Turks, most of whom practice Islam, family and family values are traditionally of great importance. The authority of older people is unquestionable, respect for older people is brought up from childhood. It is customary for residents of Ankara to gather with the whole extended family on weekends and go out for picnics, and in bad weather-to sit in the city's restaurants and tea shops. Grandparents are always placed in a place of honor at the table, who, despite their advanced age, are happy to "go out" to share a meal with their children and grandchildren in intimate conversations.

A man in a Turkish family is the undisputed leader: he is both its head and the main breadwinner. Women, especially in rural areas and small towns, tend to be restricted to the role of homemaker, providing comfort in the home and raising children.

In accordance with this historical tradition, as well as with Islamic values, many professions in Turkey still belong exclusively to men. So, for example, in Ankara, often only men work as hairdressers. The same goes for tailors, taxi drivers, and vendors at grocery markets. The staff of cafes and restaurants are representatives of the strong half of humanity. Of course, there are also waitresses, but, as a rule, only in youth bars and discos.

Turks adore children, often spoil them. The birth of a child in the family, especially a boy, is a great event for all relatives. The responsibility of raising the younger children in the family, along with their parents, falls on the older children. Kids respectfully call them big brother (agabey) or big sister (abla) and obey them in everything.

The Turks are especially sensitive to very small blond and light-eyed children. It is believed that to the one who gently pinches such a child on the cheek, well-being and good luck will come.

I am walking in a park or shopping center with my youngest daughter - here passing by Turks and Turkish women unceremoniously approach the stroller and with lamentations: "how not to jinx it", pinch my daughter's cheeks. At first, this behavior caused me and, especially, my wife rejection, confusion, but over time you get used to the local specifics...

Speaking of superstitions: the Turks take them very seriously. For example, they are convinced that anyone can be affected by the negative influence of the "evil eye". Therefore, according to a tradition dating back hundreds of years, newborns from the first days of life wear an amulet from the "evil eye" (nazar) - a bracelet or string around their neck with a tiny blue eye made of glass. These mascots of various sizes can be seen everywhere: on the doors of apartments, in front of the store entrance, in elements of clothing and jewelry, drivers hang in front of car windshields...

As in any modern society, Turkey has its own social problems. One of these problems is domestic violence. Do not idealize a simple Turkish family. Domestic quarrels, suspicions of adultery, financial difficulties often lead to physical violence of husbands in relation to their faithful. Photos of women with beatings on their faces and bodies, reports of fatal family dramas often become an integral part of the criminal columns of Turkish newspapers. Local non-governmental organizations that fight for women's rights and freedoms, along with government agencies, are trying to raise awareness about the elimination and prevention of domestic violence. However, the fight against this social evil in Turkey has not yet ended with the victory of justice.

COURTESY AND PATRIOTISM

In recent years, Turkish society has been actively discussing the negative impact on the traditional way of life and the mentality of Turks of the Western way of life with its excessive freedoms, and sometimes vices. This influence is especially noticeable in the western part of Turkey - on the Mediterranean coast, in large cities-Istanbul, Izmir. However, the majority of the population is still strongly influenced by the Islamic values and traditions of their ancestors.

The Turks are distinguished by their courteous and emphasized politeness. When visiting a store, shop, cafe, you will definitely be greeted with the phrase: "Welcome!". Even with unfamiliar neighbors in the house, it is customary to say hello. If someone inadvertently bumped into each other in a street crowd, mutual apologies will follow, regardless of who is at fault. A lost traveler and motorist will be shown the way and explained how best to get to their destination. In case of minor road accidents, drivers first greet each other after getting out of their cars with the phrase: "Let this not happen again!" (gechmish olsun), and only then proceed to inspect possible damage.

And what clearly characterizes the citizens of Turkey is a sense of patriotism, respect and love for their homeland. This feeling is cultivated in them from an early age.

On rulers in schools, in primary classes, before classes

The national anthem of the Republic of Turkey is played every day. In the courtyards of educational institutions, there is certainly a bust of the founder of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. His portraits are everywhere: in government offices, shops, on cars...

Numerous flags of Turkey with a crescent moon and a star on a red banner are flying all over the country. Many people hang national flags out of their apartment windows on national holidays, and the city turns into a huge red banner at this time.

It is noteworthy that with all the love of citizens for national symbols, Turkey is one of the few countries in the world where there is no officially approved state emblem. Its place in the departments and institutions of the country is occupied by a semi-official emblem in the form of a red oval, which, like the flag, depicts a star with a crescent moon and the name of the country, of course,in Turkish.

The Turkish government, led by the moderate Islamist Justice and Development Party and Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan, has also recently been actively promoting a return to the cultural values of the Ottoman Empire. At the end of 2014, at the initiative of the Turkish leader, the National Council for Education voted to make it mandatory to study the Ottoman language in religious lyceums and as an elective in other schools. According to Erdogan, learning the Ottoman language will restore the broken historical connection with our ancestors.

Another innovation of the Turkish president, which caused a heated discussion in Turkish society, was the new ceremony of greeting foreign guests by the Turkish leader in his palace. From now on, Erdogan meets the heads of other countries with a traditional military band and honor guard soldiers dressed in the uniforms and armor of states supposedly founded by the Turks (Turks) throughout history.

It is obvious that in such initiatives of the president, the political opposition and the liberal public in Turkey see the current government's departure from the principles of kemalism and accuse it of encroaching on the secular foundations of the country.

The polarization of the political forces of Turkish society and the existence of numerous social problems give rise to the desire of Turks to express their protest. Often, and in any weather, they are ready to take to the streets with flags, banners, posters to declare their demands or disagreements. Istanbul's central Taksim Square and Ankara's Kizilay Square are rarely empty on weekends. You can always see demonstrations, rallies, marches, and protest actions that are diverse in composition and size. Various representatives of society participate in such events, ranging from political parties, associations and trade unions to pet rights movements and marginal youth organizations.

In the summer of 2013, a student protest that started off quite innocuously

Opposition to the authorities ' plans to cut down Gezi Park in Istanbul's Taksim district and build a shopping center in its place has resulted in massive anti-government protests across the country. The authorities managed to extinguish the wave of protest only a month later-with harsh police methods, as a result of which both law enforcement officials and protesters were killed and injured.

LOVE OF SPORTS AND ... NICOTINE

Most people in Turkey are fond of sports, and this hobby is encouraged by the authorities. Cities have developed a network of fitness centers. Many parks and sports grounds in residential areas are equipped with various sports simulators. They are popular not only among young people, but also among the elderly.

Turks love mountain skiing, in the summer they prefer to go out of town for cycling, and many are fond of sports archery.

But football in Turkey is a sport that Turks can talk about, listen to, and argue about for hours on a daily basis. The whole country is watching the eternal rivals in the Turkish Premier League-Istanbul football teams Galatasaray, Besiktas and Fenerbahce. One of them, as a rule, becomes the winner of the national championship. Turkish fans are as passionate and emotional as football fans in Europe and Russia. Football has a special role to play in the local press and on television. The tabloid press, and not only it, discusses in detail the details of the personal lives of football players, their new expensive cars and gifts to their beloved women.

Many Turks strive to lead a healthy lifestyle. The attitude to alcohol in the country is rather restrained. In Turkey, there is no problem of alcoholism among young people, you will not see drunk, staggering people on the streets of cities. It is not customary to drink alcoholic beverages - even beer - on the streets and in public places. Turks prefer to drink alcohol in a fun and noisy company of relatives or friends at home, in bars and restaurants.

Tobacco smoking is another matter. Turkey is still one of the most smoking countries in the world. Despite the active anti-smoking campaign carried out by the state: the introduction of restrictive measures against smoking tobacco products and hookahs in public places, an increase in fines for smokers, Turks are in no hurry to change their habit.

They smoke a lot and enjoy it. And this is despite the fact that the average price of a pack of cigarettes in stores translated into our currency is about 190 rubles. Pockets of nicotine lovers are largely saved by cigarette smuggling from neighboring countries. Most smokers are men, but it is not uncommon to see young girls and elderly ladies with a cigarette in their hands on the street. So the proverb that was once popular in Europe - smokes like a Turk-has not yet lost its relevance.

CLEANLINESS AND ... WHEELCHAIRS

Another remarkable touch from the life of the Turks. What struck me when I arrived in Ankara was their careful and respectful attitude towards disabled people, who, due to various life circumstances, are forced to limit their movements only in wheelchairs.

At the state level, a program of social support for such people has been developed and is successfully functioning. Conditions have been created for more comfortable movement of wheelchair users in the city. Most shopping and entertainment centers in Ankara have special lifts for disabled people. There are free wheelchairs at the entrance. At the airport of the Turkish capital, for example, some pay phones on the walls are arranged in such a way that a person can make a call independently without getting up from a wheelchair.

For a long time, I couldn't understand why there are large trash cans in front of some shops, shops, and entrances of houses, in which they put plastic lids from water bottles and carbonated drinks. Later, the locals explained to me that this is a social action that was successfully launched back in 2010, and it has two goals. The first is environmental protection: plastic waste is reused. The second goal is to sell the collected lids to recyclables processors, and use the proceeds to buy wheelchairs for poor people with disabilities. In fact, the cost of one wheelchair is equivalent to 250 kg of such nondescript covers.

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Naturally, within the framework of a small article it is difficult to tell about all the features of life and everyday life, about the colorful traditions and customs of modern Turks. Among their usual tastes are also the famous cuisine and bazaars, coffee, sweets and a real pearl of eastern wellness practice-the traditional hamam bath.

But all this requires a separate narrative...

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